It’s hard to believe no one has come up with the idea of BeadMaster™ until now.
Our products not only benefit tradespeople, but also site management team. BeadMaster allows trade crossover without compromising on quality, totally eliminating return visits and snagging.
Our products make the job easier and faster for plasterers, electricians and painters alike while also improving quality of work.
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See the benefits
Work
faster
Perfect finish every time
Protects your work
Skim straight over
Plaster free sockets
Strong clean edges
No cable
hunts
No stray live wires
Flame
retardant
100% recyclable PP5 rated
Reduces
snagging
Less aggro
on site
Protection from liquids and dust
Enhances your reputation
Frequently asked questions
From electricians
On each product page you’ll find an easy to download Install Guide; just select the product of interest on the Products page.
If the metal box sits to the face of the wall, then staples are enough. But if the box sits further than 9.5mm from the surface then the indentations should be pushed through and socket screws used. This ensures alignment to the back box.
A couple of good taps to the centre of the bead once the plaster has full set (ideally a couple of days), remove the plaster from the face. We then recommend either a specialist cutting tool with a hooked blade, as these can’t easily slip or damage the cables.
If an outlet needs to have the faceplate in position. We recommend the use of either Sockitz or Yoozybox to be fitted, in conjunction with BeadMaster. This works well as the bead stops the plaster from tightening against the Yoozybox and gives the plasterer an edge to work to, preventing direct electrical contact.
From plasterers
On each product page you’ll find an easy to download Install Guide; just select the product of interest on the Products page.
If sockets or switches are close together, then simply cut down the adjoining beaded frame with scissors or tin snips and position side by side.
The products have been designed to allow for a 2-3mm skim coat of plaster.
They can either be visually seen or by simply tapping on the area. Audibly there will be a difference in sound.
If the metal box sits to the face of the wall, then staples are enough. But if the box sits further than 9.5mm from the surface then the indentations should be pushed through and socket screws used. This ensures alignment to the back box.
